[pattern] Basic Toe-up Sock Recipe

The following links are where I originally got the techniques. My modifications, if any, are written out after.

-Shallow Figure 8 toes, increasing every row (m1r and m1l)
-Stockinette foot
-Short row heel (Wendy Johnson)
-Stockinette leg
-EZ bindoff

SET UP
Figure out how many stitches you will need by measuring around the ball of your foot and multiplying by your gauge. If you are going to swatch (haha) knit up 5" worth in either direction, so you have slack in case you miss calculated.
I am working on 60 st socks on 2.5 mm needles.

TOES
This is a modified toe up sock with a figure 8 cast on, of 1/3 your total sts (10 loops on each needle, with 10 rows of increases for 60 sts). Increases are every row instead of every other row. Work is done in spirals.
1) Cast on 10 sts on two DPN needles in figure 8. Knit first row all around.
2) K1, m1r, k8, m1l, k2, m1r, k8, m1l, k1. 24 sts around.
3) K1, m1r, k10, m1l, k2, m1r, k10, m1l, k1. 28 sts around.
4) Continue the (k1, m1r, kx, m1l, k1) set until you have enough stitches to go around your foot.

If you want to make an "anatomically correct toe", where one side slants more than the other, increase one edge on every row, while the other edge increases every other row.

If you are incorporating a cable or pattern up the sides, you can also move the m1 over (i.e. My Vampire Boyfriend was started with k2, m1r, k6, m1l, k2).

TIPS
-You don't want to keep the ends of the yarn on the edge of the 8s, because your stitches won't catch (for lack of a better word). Flip your first and last loops around so that the ends are inside the 8's.
.................no..............................................yes.................................


-It doesn't really matter if you have leaning increases, but if you only do m1's, you will have little gap.

[pattern] Hawaii A Goth-O

This is my second finished entry in the Ravelympics. It is an earmuff/headband with a hawaiian hibiscus flower duplicate stitched over it.

Pattern: Hawaii A Goth-O
Yarn: Naturally Caron-Country in black and claret
Needles: US 8 / 5.0 mm
Completed: February 27, 2010

Even rows are all purls.
1. CO 3 sts. Turn.
3. K1, m1, k1, m1, k1. 5 sts.
5. K1, m1, k all but last st, m1, k1.
Repeat rows 5 and 6 until at least 25 sts on needles, or desired width.
Knit about 70 rows in stockinette, or enough to go around head, minus length of increases.
1. Ssk, k all but last two sts, k2tog.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 3 sts left. K3tog.

Cut 6 strands, 16" long. Insert three strands around center st, two rows from tip, and braid. Repeat on other end.

Locate center of band and duplicate stitch motif. At least 6 yards are needed for one flower. There is enough space to place three motifs, preferably rotating image.

[pattern] Three Leaf Hat

This is a very simple hat that can be modified for slouchiness and size, and knit up in a weekend. I will try to explain the individual stitches, but I will make more emphasis on the logic behind them. Size mods and glossary are at the end.


Yarn: Rio De La Plata wool solid in Carnation

Weight: Aran / 10 ply (8 wpi)

Yardage: 140 yards (128 meters)

Unit weight: 100 grams (3.53 ounces)

Needle: US 8 / 5.0 mm

1. Cast on 80 stitches in the round on 4 DPNs, 20 sts each. (circular needles can also be used)
2. Knit an inch (10 rows) of 2x2 rib.
3. Start chart, 2 chart repeats per needle.

CHART (repeat 8 times):
1. k1, p9. 10 sts
2. fcP, p8. 10 sts
3. p1, fcK, p7. 10 sts
4. p1, k1, fcP, p6. 10 sts
5. p1, k1, p1, fcP, p5. 10 sts
6. p1, k1, p2, p4. 10 sts
begin leaf increases7. p1, yo, k1, yo, p3, fcK, p3. 12 sts.
8. p1, k3, p3, fcP, p2. 12 sts.
9. p1, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p3, k1, p1, fcP, p1. 14 sts.
10. p1, k5, p3, k1, p2, fcP. 14 sts.
11. p1, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, (p3, k1) twice. 16 sts.
12. p1, k7, (p3, k1) twice. 16 sts.
13. p1, ssk, k3, k2tog, p3, k1, p3, yo, k1, yo. 16 sts.
14. p1, k5, p3, k1, p3, k3. 16 sts.
15. p1, ssk, k1, k2tog, p3, k1, p3, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1. 16 sts.
16. p1, k3, p3, k1, p3, k5. 16 sts.
17. p1, k3tog, p3, k1, p3, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2. 16 sts.
18. p5, k1, p3, k7. 16 sts.
19. p5, k1, p3, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3. 18 sts.
20. p5, k1, p3, k9. 18 sts.
21. p5, yo, k1, yo, p3, ssk, k5, k2tog. 18 sts.
22. p5, k3, p3, k7. 18 sts.
23. p5, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, p3, ssk, k3, k2tog. 18 sts.
24. p5, k5, p3, k5. 18 sts.
25. p5, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, p3, ssk, k1, k2tog. 18 sts.
26. p5, k7, p3, k3. 18 sts.
27. p5, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, p3, k3tog. 18 sts.
28. p5, k9, p4. 18 sts.
29. p5, k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, p4. 20 sts.
30. p5, k11, p4. 20 sts.
start background decreases
31. p4, k3tog, k7, k2tog, p4. 17 sts.
32. p4, k8, ssk, p3. 16 sts.
33. p3, k3tog, k5, k2tog, p3. 13 sts.
34. p3, k6, ssk, p2. 12 sts.
35. p2, k3tog, k3, k2tog, p2. 9 sts.
36. p2, k4, ssk, p1. 8 sts.
37. p1, k3tog, k1, k2tog, p1. 5 sts.
38. p1, k2, ssk. 4 sts.
39. k3tog. 1 st.
40. p1. 1 st.

p2tog all around until you run out of sts and bind off. (8 sts > 4 sts > 2 sts > 1 st).


GLOSSARY:
Stitches are counted as they approach the tip of the needle.
-->

g			knit
/			purl
j			yo
S	D		fcP
S	G		fcK
\			ssk
|			k2tog (both from leaf)
d			k2tog (including backround purl)
3			k3tog

fcP: front cable purl. First st is held in front, while second st is purled behind it, then k first st.
fcK: front cable knit. First st is held in front, while second st is knit behind it, then k first st.
ssk: a one st decrease that leaves the first st on top of second st.
k2tog: a one st decrease that leaves the second st on top of first st.
k3tog: a two st decrease that leaves the second st on top, then the third in the middle, and the first on the bottom.
p2tog: purl 2 together.


MODS:
This pattern started off with a three leaf branch from a tree in the last pattern in A Treasury of Knitting Patterns, by Barbara G. Walker. The original pattern had all the leaves the same size (3 increases), which I modified to have 4 and 5 increases on other leaves to make it baggier. If you want a more fitted beanie, skip rows 19-22 in the left leaf, and 29-33 in the center leaf. The same logic can be used to make the hat even baggier.

For smaller sizes, a 10 st repeat can be substituted with the appropriate number of purls, distributed between repeats. Purls can also be added in between repeats to make a bigger hat.

[pattern] Mom's Thrummed House Slippers

These things are so cozy! The slippers knit up in a few hours on Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Bulky in Oatmeal with size 11 needles, and then a few more hours to thrum them with alpaca fiber with a crochet hook. Probably 4/5 of the skein was used. And I really should have written this up a month ago when I still had everything fresh in my head :/

PATTERN
This is a modified toe up sock with a figure 8 cast on. Increases are every row instead of every other row. Work is done in spirals. The leaf pattern is the same one used for my Lacey Leaf socks, taken upside down, and only once across.
1) Cast on 8 sts on two DPN needles in figure 8. Knit first row all around, splitting on to 4 DPNs.
2) K1, m1, k6, m1, k2, m1, k6, m1, k1. 20 sts around.
3) K1, m1, k8, m1, k2, m1, k8, m1, k1. 24 sts around.
4) K1, m1, k10, m1, k2, m1, k10, m1, k1. 28 sts around.
5) K1, m1, k12, m1, k2, m1, k12, m1, k1. 32 sts around.
Here is where the patterning starts. For the lace pattern, you will pattern every odd row and k every even row.
6) K32
7) K5, yo, ssk, p1, k2tog, yo, k6. 16 sts.
9) K4, yo, k1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k5.
11) K3, yo, k2, ssk, p1, k2tog, k2, yo, k4.
13) K2, yo, k3, ssk, p1, k2tog, k3, yo, k3.
15) K2, k2tog, yo, k7, yo, ssk, k3.
17) K2, k2tog, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, ssk, k3.
19) K2, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k3.
21) K2, k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k3.
22-29) repeat first half of pattern from row 6.
Insert a short row heel on side opposite of pattern.
30-37) repeat second half of pattern (rows 14-21).
Knit in spiral to desired height (about four rows) and make an EZ super stretchy bind off.

Thrumming is inserted down center of pattern, and along footbed, moving diagonally two rows and two stitches for next point.
---
My sister's house slippers, in brown, were done on size 10 needles and without thrumming or lace pattern. Five more rows were added to the footbed (35 total) to compensate for a smaller gauge.

[pattern] Marge Simpson

After discarding many costume ideas due to lack of time and/or money, I decided to do Marge Simpson this year. Everything was purchased at Walmart.

Dress $3
shoes $5
necklace $2.50
364 yds Red Heart, Blue $1.50
185 yds Lion Brand Homespun, Montana Sky $4.50
Boye crochet hook, size Q (15.75 mm) $3

Total time = 3 hours

HAIR
Holding both ends of Red Heart and one of Homespun together, work in spiral rounds.
To make bobble (MB), work 3 SC in same st leaving 4 loops on hook, draw yarn through all 4 loops at once. Draw yarn through loop tightly to close.
Scs between bobbles are also pulled tight to diminish gaps.

1. Ch 3. Join to start.
2. Mb x 3 in center hole.
3. (Mb, sc, mb, sc) in next gap. Repeat until there are 12 bobbles in outer round, or outer diameter is size of head.
4. (Mb, sc) in each gap until yarn runs out or hair is desired height, weave in ends. About 24 inches. Each round is 1" tall.

Fill finished hair with balloons or bubble wrap to get rigidity without being too heavy.

[pattern] Doesn't play well with others

In honor of a friend getting her tubes tied, I decided to give her a pair of ovaries in a jar, with googley eyes. Because everybody knows that all body parts that make it into a jar need googley eyes!


Knitpicks Pallete in Blush
Fingering weight
231 yds/50 gr per ball
23.7154 yds/5.1332 gr used

2.5 mm crochet hook
5 cotton balls

3 1/2 hours
Ovaries are 1" around, with 3" tubes.

OVARY (make 2)
Work in spiral.
1. Sc 7 in magic ring.
2. (2 sc in next st) x 7. 14 sts.
3. Sc around.
4. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 7. 21 sts.
5. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 7. 28 sts.
6-11. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds. Stuff before hole gets too small.
12. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 7. 21 sts.
13. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 7. 14 sts.
14. Sc around.
15. (Sc2tog) x 10. 4 sts.
It is now time to work on the tube.
Continue to work 4 sts in spiral until tube is about 3" long, or long enough to tie in a knot. Finish with 4 hcs. Tie knot, break off and hide yarn.

[pattern] Leaf socks

Araucania Ranco -Solids: PT484 Green

Hand painted 4ply sock yarn.
Each hank is unique, so there are no dye-lots.
75% wool 25% polyamide.
Approx 344m (376y) per 100g skein.
Gauge 24st to 10cm on 3.25mm needles.
Final weight 51.9882 g, 195.5 yards on 3.25 mm needles (US 3)
Made sep 12, 09 - oct 5, 09, about one week per sock.

Care instructions:
Dry cleaning is recommended. Gently hand wash with cool water and mild soap. Wash similar colors separately. Dry flat, do not sun dry, soak, spin or tumble dry.


Figure-Eight Toe, by Knitty
wendy's toe-up sock pattern for the short row heel

This pattern is a combination of the two found on these websites, and a leaf pattern from a book. The leaf lace uses 8 patterned rows plus 8 knit rows, for a total of 16 rows of 12 stitches per repeat, a bit bigger than an inch square. When doing the repeats for the foot and leg, the pattern can be split easily into two 8 row halves to acquire the desired lengths. For a roughly size 41 ankle sock, I did 4 1/2 repeats for the foot, and 2 repeats for the leg.



Figure-Eight Toe

My original plan was to follow these easy instructions from Knitty, but of course I messed up and ended up doing something completely different! Increases are on every row, instead of every other row.

• 1. Take 2 of your dpns and wrap your sock yarn around them in a figure-eight, leaving 8 loops on each needle.
  

• 2. Knit one row on each needle.
  

• 3. Begin knitting in the round by picking up next round with 4 dpns.

Round 0 - With needle 4: m1, k4. 5 sts total

Stitch counting will begin in the middle of the row, which will lead to the center of the heel.

R1 - n1: k4, m1. 5 sts total

n2: m1, k4. 5 sts total

n3: k4, m1. 5 sts total

n4: k5. 5 sts total

R2 - n1: k4, m1, k1. 6 sts total

n2: k1, m1, k4. 6 sts total

n3: k4, m1, k1. 6 sts total

n4: k1, m1, k4. 6 sts total

R3 - n1: k5, m1, k1. 7 sts total

n2: k1, m1, k5. 7 sts total

n3: k5, m1, k1. 7 sts total

n4: k1, m1, k5. 7 sts total

R4-R11: keep increasing (m1) one st away from the end, until you have 60 sts, 15 sts per needle.

Foot

It is now time to start knitting up the foot in the round. You can stick to four dpns or any other method you prefer, but since this pattern is made by repeating the leaf pattern five times, I divided the stitches among five dpns.

R12 - n1: k12

n2: k3 remaining on needle, plus k9 from next needle.

n3: k6 remaining on needle, plus k6 from next needle.

n4: k9 remaining on needle, plus k3 from next needle.

n5: k12 remaining on needle.

There should now be 12 sts per needle, 60 total. Time to start the lace pattern.

yo - yarn over

k2tog - knit 2 together

ssk - slip, slip, knit. I knit back-assed permutation of Reverse Continental or something, so this means I slip the first st through the back loop, slip the second st through the back loop, and then return both sts, coming in through the back. Now knit both together.

For the lace pattern, you will pattern every odd row and k every even row.

R13 - n1: k12

n2-4: p1, ssk, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, k2tog. (12 sts each)

note: The ssk and k2tog stitches should mirror each other across the purl st.

n5: k12

R14 - k60

R15 - n1: k12

n2-4: p1, ssk, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, k2tog. (12 sts each)

n5: k12

R16 - k60

R17 - n1: k12

n2-4: p1, ssk, k1, yo, k5, yo, k1, k2tog. (12 sts each)

n5: k12

R18 - k60

R19 - n1: k12

n2-4: p1, ssk, yo, k7, yo, k2tog. (12 sts each)

n5: k12

R20 - k60

R21 - n1: k12

n2-4: k1, yo, k3, k2tog, p1, ssk, k3, yo. (12 sts each)

n5: k12

R22 - k60

R23 - n1: k12

n2-4: k2, yo, k2, k2tog, p1, ssk, k2, yo, k1. (12 sts each)

n5: k12

R24 - k60

R25 - n1: k12

n2-4: k3, yo, k1, k2tog, p1, ssk, k1, yo, k2. (12 sts each)

n5: k12

R26 - k60

R27 - n1: k12

n2-4: k4, yo, k2tog, p1, ssk, yo, k3. (12 sts each)

n5: k12

R28 - k60

Repeat R13-28 until the foot is about an inch and a half shorter than the desired finished length.

note: This lace pattern can easily be done in 8 row repeats (instead of the whole 16 rows) to get a more accurate length.

Short row heel, by Wendy Johnson

It is now time to divide stitches into 30 instep sts and 30 heel sts. Both Magic Loop and dpn methods work.

R1 - k14. Move yarn as if to purl. Slip the last, unworked st from left needle to right needle. Turn.

R2 - Slip first, unworked st from left needle to right needle. Purl next stitch (it will now have been wrapped by the working yarn), purl to last st. Move yarn as if to knit. Slip last st. Turn.

R3 - s1, knit to last worked st. Wrap last worked st and turn.

R4 - s1, purl to last worked st. Wrap last worked st and turn.

Repeat R3-4 until 8 heel sts are wrapped on left side, 14 sts are "live" in the middle, and 8sts are wrapped on the right. Your heel is half done, and you should be ready to work a right side row.

Note: How many stitches you leave unworked in the middle depends on how wide you want your sock heel to be. If you want it a bit wider, do a couple fewer short rows. If you want it a bit narrower, do a couple more short rows.

For the second half of the heel:

R1 - Knit across the 14 live stitches across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. To work this stitch, pick up the wrap and knit it together with the stitch.

Wrap the next stitch (so that it now has two wraps) and turn.

R2 - Slip the first (double-wrapped) stitch and purl across to the first unworked, wrapped stitch. Pick up the wrap and purl it together with the stitch. Wrap the next stitch and turn.

On subsequent rows you will pick up both wraps and knit or purl them together with the stitch.

Continue until you have worked all the stitches and you once again have 30 "live" stitches. When you have all stitches live again, divide the stitches as you did for the foot.

Leg

Work until the leg is the desired length to the ribbing, then work in ribbing to the desired finished length. Bind off was done with a crochet row at 4.25 mm, one at 2.5 mm, and one at 1.25 mm.

ERRATA

I hated this bind off, so I ripped it out and did 5 rows of 1x1 rib with the same amount of yarn and finished with EZ super stretchy sewn bind off. Here's the video!

[FO] Quant!

This was a quick Knit-a-long that I had with my crafting group, the Centre County Crafting Bitches. It took me about a week to make while waiting for the bus. Probably a total of ten hours, including all the time spent on taking it out of the bag to do a row, and then stuffing it all back in.



I used . Knitpicks' Pallete in Tidepool Heather, and according to my wonderful lab scale, only 17.2703 g of it, so it cost me a whopping 69¢ to make!

The pattern was a free download from Knitty.



This was the first knit object that I have finished in probably a decade and a half, or so. The first actual memories that I have of knitting were with my grandmother in 1991, though I might have learned before, I can't remember :/ But for some reason, I would always try to make a scarf and get so damned bored with it, that I still have half of one that is a good seven years old. I've made several things in crochet since then, but all the knits just sink to the bottom of the list.

Until the knit-a-long. I am now addicted, and have spent something like $250 in the last month on sock yarns and circular needles -_-;; Which, by the way, I need to remember to return, but I'll hopefully remember to make a review post about them soon. So yeah, I used to be a hooker, and now I share needles...

I didn't encounter any problems with the pattern, but I'm known to jump head first into projects. It's so much easier to do things when you don't know that you don't know how, and when you don't know it's supposed to be "difficult"! I did hear, though, that there was a problem with picking up stitches for someone in the group.

Both ends of the quant are different, and it's rumored that there is a pattern mod out there to make them the same.

[pattern] Alice in Wonderland amigurumi doll

A friend of mine is quite addicted to Alice in Wonderland, and has an amazing half sleeve tattoo all around her left leg of characters from the original woodcut characters. It was her 30'th birthday a couple of weeks ago, and I figured what better gift for someone traumatized by "old age" than a doll? I couldn't find a specific pattern for it, obviously, so I started with this pattern and took some heavy liberties. Here is a transcript of what I remembered to jot down :/





MATERIALS:
Peaches & Creme Worsted Weight 100% cotton yarn
- 4 ecru for skin
- 26 light blue for dress
- 1 white for apron and stockings
- 10 yellow for hair
- red floss
- organic cotton balls for stuffing
- 2.5 mm crochet hook

TECHNIQUES AND STITCHES:
magic adjustable ring http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/
chain CH
single crochet SC
reverse crochet RC (is there a better way to call it? It's as if you were doing a SC with your left hand instead of right)
double crochet DC
half double crotchet HDC
skip SK
single crochet two together Sc2tog (or skip a stitch)
2 sc into next st (or add a stitch)


PATTERN NOTES:
Body is one piece that is head and torso.
Skirt is then knitted onto the torso.
Arms and Legs are knit independently and sewn on.
Hair is woven into stuffed head.
Apron is one piece, tied on.


HEAD
Work in rounds using ecru yarn.
1. Sc7 in magic ring.
2. (2 sc in next st) x 7. 14 st.
3. Sc around.
4. (Sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) x 7. 21 sts.
5. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, 2 sc into next st) x 7. 28 sts.
6-11. Sc around.
Start decreasing rounds. Stuff before hole gets too small.
12. (Sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) x 7. 21 sts.
13. (Sc into next st, sc2tog) x 7. 14 sts.
14-15. Sc around.
16. (Sc2tog, Sc into each of next 5 sts ) x 2. 12 sts.
17-18. Sc around.
19. (Sc2tog, Sc into each of next 4 sts ) x 2. 10 sts.

SWITCH TO BLUE YARN.

20-22. Sc around. 10 sts.
23. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 4 sts) x 2. 12 sts.
24. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 5 sts) x 2. 14 sts.
25. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 6 sts) x 2. 16 sts.
26. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 7 sts) x 2. 18 sts.
27. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 8 sts) x 2. 20 sts.
28. ( sc into next st, chain, sc into same st, sc into each of next 9 sts) x 2. 24 sts. This creates the V-neck in the apron.
*This V isn't really necessary nor noticeable, so you might want to distribute additions on all four corners.
29. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 11 sts) x 2. 26 sts.
30. ( sc into next st, chain, sc into same st, sc into each of next 12 sts) x 2. 30 sts.
31. ( sc into next st, chain, sc into same st, sc into each of next 15 sts) x 2. 36 sts.
32. 2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 6 sts, 6 bobbly things linking the next 2sts, 16 scs, bobble, 8 scs. 36 sts
*bobbly thing is the technical term. You can see them in the second picture. This, too, was unnecessary, and too low for the shoulders. It was, though, quite useful once I tried to attach the arms, giving a bit of volume into the sleeve. You can just do two normal stitches into those two scs if you plan on crocheting the sleeve as part of the arm.
33. 8 scs, skip bobble, 16 scs, skip bobble, 8 scs. 32 sts.
*or skip the two stitches that would have been the bobble.
34. Sc around. 32 sts.
Start decreasing
35. (Sc2tog, 6 scs) x 4. 28 sts.
36. 6 scs, sc2tog, 13 scs, sc2tog, 5 scs. 26 sts.
37. 6 scs, sc2tog, 11 scs, sc2tog, 5 scs . 24 sts.
38. (Sc2tog, 4 scs) x 4. 20 sts.
39. (Sc2tog, 3 scs) x 4. 16 sts.
40. (Sc2tog, 2 scs) x 4. 12 sts.

Now for the BLOOMERS. Yay, CHANGE TO WHITE! Don't forget to stuff the rest of the torso.

41. Sc around. 12 sts.
42. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 2 sts) x 4. 16 sts.
43. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 3 sts) x 4. 20 sts.
44. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 4 sts) x 4. 24 sts.
45. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 3 sts) x 6. 30 sts.
46. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 4 sts) x 6. 36 sts.
47-50. Sc around. 36 sts.
51. 6 scs, 3 Sc2tog, 12 scs, 3 Sc2tog, 6 scs. 30 sts. <- hips 52. 7 scs, Sc2tog, 13 scs, Sc2tog, 6 scs. 28 sts. 53. 4 scs, 3 Sc2tog, 8 scs, 3 Sc2tog, 4 scs. 22 sts 54. 2 scs, 3 Sc2tog, 4 scs, 3 Sc2tog. 12 sts, stop on side. Stuff butt and close front against back. BLUE Skirt! 1. Sc around, into last row of BLUE on waist (row 40). 12 sts. See third picture.
2. (2 sc into next st, sc into next st) x 6. 18 sts.
3. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 2 sts) x 6. 24 sts.
4. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 5 sts) x 4. 28 sts.
5. (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 6 sts) x 4. 32 sts.
6 -15 (2 sc into next st, sc into each of next 7 sts) x 4. 36 sts.

COLLAR
*Yeah, I forgot this part. I wanted to add a collar to the dress, in the same fashion as I added the skirt, to the first row of blue in the neck.
1. Starting at front center, sc around, into first row of BLUE on neck (row 20). 10 sts. Turn.
2. Sc around, 10 sts.
Make sure you switch down to the blue row when you reach the center back of the neck, so the collar meets up in the front.



FEET AND LEGS - MAKE 2
*I forgot to buy black yarn, so I did all this just using white, figuring I could crochet on top of the stitches later, but was too lazy.

Work in rounds using BLACK yarn, unless WHITE is specified. Rounds 1-6 are shoe shaping, 7-18 are tights. Switching colors on a round: when you return to using the other color, carry the unused yarn loosely behind the work so the shoe does not get “squinched.”

BLACK
1. Sc 5.
2. 2 sc in first st, hdc in next st, 3 dc in next st, hdc in next st, 2 sc in last st. 9 st.
3. 2 sc in first st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
4. 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 st, sc next st in WHITE, sc2tog in WHITE, sc2tog (first sc is WHITE, second sc is BLACK), sc in each of the next 3 sts, 2 sc in last st. 12 st.
5. Sc in first st, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc in each of the next 4 sts in WHITE, sc in next st, sc2tog, sc in last st. 10 sts.
6. Sc2tog, sc next st, sc in each of the next 5 sts in WHITE, sc2tog in WHITE. 8 sts. Stuff shoe.
FROM NOW ON, USE WHITE ALONE.
7-18. 8 sts.
Stuff leg if too floppy.
Pinching the open end flat, crochet leg slightly toward the front at the bottom of torso. This position makes it easier to make the doll sit. Add a second row of scs onto the seam to make the lace on the bloomers. (I knew I forgot to take a picture...)



HAND AND ARM - MAKE 2
Work in rounds using ECRU yarn (skin color).
1. Sc 4.
2. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sts.
3. Sc around. Stuff hand and put in small magnet/metal piece, if desired.
4. (Sc2tog) x 4. 4 sts.
5. (2 sc into next st) x 4. 8 sts.
6-12. Sc around.
13. Turn, ch 1, sc 6. Turn.
14. Sk 1, sc 4. Turn.
15. Sk 1, sc 2. Turn.
16. Sk 1, sc 1.
*I would skip this last row next time for a rounder, not pointy shoulder. I didn't mind having a couple of rows that with stitches backwards, since I ended up creating the sleeve by sewing all over the last four rows.
Stuff arm if too floppy.
Sew arm on to body (around the shoulder bobbles) using BLUE yarn, always returning to the same hole in the middle of row 13 to make puffy sleeve. *See picture 6.



HAIR
Thread YELLOW yarn into scalp between stitches and pull through a couple of inches. Hold a three inch tail of yarn, and pull a loop of yarn with your hook into the hole in the center of the scalp and out at each stitch. Do two full rounds, and then skip the front ten or so stitches for the next three rounds. Once all of the hair is looped in, cut the loops open and split the plies into individual strands, to make it look like waivy hair. Finish by trimming the hair to an even length down to the collar of the dress.



APRON
I have no idea how I made up this pattern, but it's pretty much just trying to keep it all flat and facing forward. I also forgot to write down what I was doing because I was pressed for time, so you might need to adjust the number of chs at the ends of the bib to make it to the next row, without being too many.

1. Chain 9. Turn. Leave a long tail.
2. Sk 1, sc 8, ch 3. Turn keeping flat.
3. Sc in each of 8 original chain, ch 4. Turn 180 keeping flat.
4. Sc in last ch of row 2, sc 9, ch 5. Turn 180 keeping flat.
5. Sc in last sh of row 3, sc 9, ch 6. Turn 180 keeping flat.
6. Sc in last ch of row 4, sc 11, ch 7. Turn 180 keeping flat.
7. Sc in last ch of row 5, sc 11, ch 8. Turn 180 keeping flat.
8. Sc in last ch of row 6, sc 13, ch 9. Turn 180 keeping flat.
9. Sc in last ch of row 7. Turn 90 degrees.
10. DC 8 into chain, ch1. *this was going to serve as a place to weave a belt into the apron.
Here is where my need to keep it all pretty and facing forward made me learn how to crochet in reverse.
11. Rc into each of next 8 dc, ch 1. 9 sts.
12. Sc into each of next 9 rc, ch 1. 10 sts.
13. Rc into each of next 10 sc, ch 1. 11 sts.
14. Sc into each of next 11 rc, ch 1. 12 sts.
15. Rc into each of next 12 sc, ch 1. 13 sts.
16. Sc into each of next 13 rc, ch 1. 14 sts.
17. Rc into each of next 14 sc, ch 1. 15 sts.
18. Sc into each of next 15 rc, ch 1. 16 sts.
19. Rc into each of next 16 sc, ch 1. 17 sts.
20. Sc into each of next 17 rc, ch 1. 18 sts.
21. Rc into each of next 18 sc, ch 1. 19 sts.
22. Sc into each of next 19 rc, ch 1. 20 sts.
23. Rc into each of next 20 sc, ch 1. 21 sts.
24. Sc into each of next 21 rc, ch 1. 22 sts.

Take the tail from the original chain and sew it into the chains on the edges to keep them from opening up.

The pockets were crocheted onto the apron, by first picking up 6 stitches in a U shape (two going down, two going accross, and two going back up). The next row consisted of (2 sctog) x 3, and a last sc into the sc on the opposite side.

Using the RED yarn (or floss), SC all around the apron.

To tie the apron on to the doll, cut 6 strands of WHITE yarn, 12" each. Thread 3 on each side of the DCs, double up and braid. Tie a discrete knot at the end.



FACE
*You could now sew on a face, but doll faces nomally creep me out, and I suck at drawing faces to begin with... so here's Snuffy's explanation.

Use embroidery needle and 3 strands of cotton floss, knotted at the end and brought up to the face through the center hole at the bottom of the neck. Satin stitch facial features. Using brown floss, stitch eyes and eyebrows. Using pink floss, stitch mouth.

With blusher brush, gently dab tiny bit of pink blush on cheeks.